Make It Easy to Travel with Needlepoint!
By: Janet M. Perry
It’s summer and that means vacations. Needlepoint can be a wonderful and relaxing activity during long hours waiting in airports and riding in a car. Here are some tips, adapted from my book, NEEDLEPOINT TRADE SECRETS to help make stitching on vacation more enjoyable.
Needlepoint in the Car
Car trips are great times for doing needlepoint! The needlepoint you pick should
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BRAIDED CHAIN STITCH
The Braided Chain Stitch is one of the numerous chain stitches available. This is an
excellent decorative stitch. The braided chain stitch is worked using a loose tension. It is a great choice for working around corners and curved areas. We will also be demonstrating the Heavy Chain Stitch on this page. The heavy chain stitch is worked exactly the same as the braided chain stitch, until diagram 4. If you choose to use either of these stitches as accent stitches, it is recommended that you work all other typees of stitches first. If you choose to work these stitches in rows, just add straight filling stitches between the rows. Four diagrams have been used to demonstrate this stitch. Clicking on the PRINTABLE VERSION icon, located at the end of the series of diagrams, will direct you to the page to print these instructions.
Braided Chain Stitch (Diagram 1):
Bring the needle up at A, move up over one canvas thread, bring the needle down at B. Be sure to work this small stitch securely, as the next series of stitches will be worked into it. Now, continue on to Diagram 2...
Braided Chain Stitch (Diagram 2):
Beginning where we left off at B, bring the needle up at C, move up over three canvas threads, move under and through the A/B stitch - illustrated in dark blue (do NOT pass the yarn under the canvas thread, work it through the yarn only). Once you have worked the needle through the previous stitch, move the needle down over three canvas threads and bring the needle down at C. It is important to maintain a loose tension in order to create the chain. Now, continue on to diagram 3...
Braided Chain Stitch (Diagram 3):
Beginning where we left off at C, bring the needle up at D, move up over five canvas threads, again, move under and through the A/B stitch - illustrated in dark blue (do NOT pass the yarn under the canvas thread, work it through the yarn only). Once you have worked the needle through the A/B stitch, move the needle down over five canvas threads and bring the needle down at D. Again, it is important to maintain a loose tension in order to create the chain. Now, continue on to diagram 4...
Braided Chain Stitch (Diagram 4):
Beginning where we left off at D, bring the needle up at E, move up over five canvas threads, work the needle/yarn OVER the second chain stitch (D) and work the needle/yarn UNDER the first chain stitch (C) - but NOT under the canvas threads. Move down over five canvas threads and bring the needle down at E. Again, it is important to maintain a loose tension in order to create the chain stitch. Although this sounds a little complicated, if you follow diagram 4 exactly as it is shown, you will see how easy this stitch can be.
HEAVY
CHAIN STITCH
The Heavy Chain Stitch is another one of the numerous chain stitches available. This stitch
is worked exactly the same as the braided chain stitch, except for diagram 4. At this point, you will see the needle/yarn is worked under both of the previous chains, instead of just one, as is the case with the braided chain stitch. Four diagrams have been used to demonstrate this stitch. Clicking on the PRINTABLE VERSION icon, located at the end of the series of diagrams, will direct you to the page to print these instructions.
Heavy Chain Stitch (Diagram 1):
Bring the needle up at A, move up over one canvas thread, bring the needle down at B. Be sure to work this small stitch securely, as the next series of stitches will be worked into it. Now, continue on to Diagram 2...
Heavy Chain Stitch (Diagram 2):
Beginning where we left off at B, bring the needle up at C, move up over three canvas threads, move under and through the A/B stitch - illustrated in dark blue (do NOT pass the yarn under the canvas thread, work it through the yarn only). Once you have worked the needle through the previous stitch, move the needle down over three canvas threads and bring the needle down at C. It is important to maintain a loose tension in order to create the chain. Now, continue on to diagram 3...
Heavy Chain Stitch (Diagram 3):
Beginning where we left off at C, bring the needle up at D, move up over five canvas threads, again, move under and through the A/B stitch - illustrated in dark blue (do NOT pass the yarn under the canvas thread, work it through the yarn only). Once you have worked the needle through the A/B stitch, move the needle down over five canvas threads and bring the needle down at D. Again, it is important to maintain a loose tension in order to create the chain. As I have previously stated, this is exactly the same as the first three diagrams of the braided chain stitch. The next diagram will illustrate how this stitch differs from the braided chain stitch. Now, continue on to diagram 4...
Heavy Chain Stitch (Diagram 4):
Beginning where we left off at D, bring the needle up at E, move up over five canvas threads, work the needle/yarn UNDER the second chain stitch (D) and work the needle/yarn UNDER the first chain stitch (C) - but NOT under the canvas threads. Move down over five canvas threads and bring the needle down at E. Again, it is important to maintain a loose tension in order to create the chain stitch. Although this sounds a little complicated, if you follow diagram 4 exactly as it is shown, you will see how easy this stitch can be. This diagram does not illustrate the correct thickness of the
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This diagram does not illustrate the correct thickness of the yarn, so the full effect of this stitch does not appear apparent. When complete, this stitch creates a nice, full look, similar to rich braiding.
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yarn, so the full effect of this stitch does not appear apparent. When complete, like the braided chain stitch, this stitch creates a nice, full look, similar to rich braiding.
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Do you have a sample of this stitch that you would like to share? If so, click here...
Needlepoint in Hotel Rooms
Hotel rooms usually use lower wattage bulbs and this can make it hard to see. You can pack a 100 watt bulb in your luggage and change it when you get to the room.
Many hotels now have special fixtures which use fluorescent bulbs and you can't do this. If this happens to you, sit near the window during the day to stitch. Using lighter
either be worked "in hand" (not on stretcher bars) or small.
Make sure you pack in your project bag scissors, a zipper bag to clean up your orts, threads, instructions, and many extra needles. I can't tell you how many projects got delayed because I lost my only needle.
A car trip is a great place to stitch large areas which use familiar stitches. I often reserve projects like this for trips.
colors or larger mesh also helps.
But to be sure you have enough light, no matter what, get a small project lamp which is battery operated. If you're going on a long trip, be sure to pack extra batteries -- they can be hard to find n foreign countries.
Needlepoint in your Luggage
Don't leave your needlepoint on stretcher bars in your
luggage. Take it off the bars and store it with the threads. Group the bars with a rubber band and pack them. Your tacks will have to go into you checked luggage.
I always pack an extra project in my suitcase to work on if I finish my current project.
Before you leave be sure you have ALL the threads you need and all instructions. You may not be near a place to buy more.
Needlepoint on Airplanes
It's OK to take needlepoint on board planes, although the regulations about scissors
and cutters change often. In 2007, scissors are OK, but round cutters are not. The safest bet is to have a pair of bunt-tipped child's scissors you use just for traveling.
Put your name and address in any project bag you have. If you lose it, this might bring it back to you.
I always pack an extra small project (my airplane project) in my tote bag. Having this to do keeps me
happy and busy even when the flight from SF is delayed 3 hours because of fog.
The light in airplanes, especially at night, is poor, the battery-operated project light is perfect for planes.
Since newer planes don't have ashtrays, getting rid of orts is a problem. Use you empty glass or bring on a small zipper bag you can throw away.
About The Author:
Janet M. Perry is one of the leading writers of needlepoint stitch guides in the world.
She writes innovative guides for needlepoint canvases from over 20 designers. She puts into practice her motto to make needlepoint fast, fun and affordable. She is an expert in needlepoint, both on the Web and through her writing as the Needlepoint Pro for Cross-Stitch & Needlework magazine. She works with deigners, shops, and thread manufacturers on new products and regularly reports on trends in needlepoint. Her newest book, Needlepoint Trade Secrets, will be available in the summer of 2007 on Amazon. Visit her website (http://www.napaneedlepoint.com) or blog (http://www.nuts-about-needlepoint.com) to learn about my newest products.
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