Painted - Screened - Printed - Computer - Printed - A Guide to Needlepoint Canvas Terms
By: Janet M. Perry

You see them in the titles and descriptions of needlepoint pieces all the time, but what do they mean? They are on eBay, in catalog, and in descriptions of needlepoint in magazines.

How can I be sure that when I find a canvas which is a pleasure to stitch? Knowing what you are buying is the key to finding the perfect canvas. The imprecision of a printed canvas can make it difficult for a beginner to know what to stitch. The
Framing:
Once the piece is mounted, simply choose a frame to compliment it. You may use a frame with or without glass/plexiglass, depending on the dust ratio of your area.

Lining:
Although no longer considered necessary, lining a piece can help protect it. Lining your project consists of adding a piece of material to the back of the piece. Simply sew a lighter weight material onto the back of your needlework.
 
THE BASICS
- FINISHING -
Blocking:
Canvas tends to become distorted during the stitching process. To bring the finished piece back to the original shape, we use a method called "blocking". For a finished piece that has not been overly distorted, you may skip this step and move on to "setting". To block a finished piece, begin by placing the piece finished-side down onto a soft board (clean cardboard will work). Using thumbtacks, attach the piece to the cardboard. This is done by placing thumbtacks in each corner as you realign the
piece to the original shape. Place more thumbtacks along all four sides as you gradually adjust the piece. If an area requires alot of stretching, be sure to sponge the area (lightly) with cold water. You may now begin "setting" the piece.
Setting:
If the piece has not been badly distorted and you have skipped the first step of "blocking" you need only to "steam-iron" the back of the piece. This should set the piece.
If you have a badly distorted piece and have completed blocking, you may set the piece by using a cold sponge. Simply sponge the back of the piece
with cold water and leave it to dry. It may take as much as a week to dry. Be sure to leave it out of sunlight and at room temperature.
Mounting:
Needlepoint must be mounted onto a solid surface to retain the original shape. There are a few different methods of mounting available.
1 -Mount on covered hardboard. Cover a piece of hard wood with material and
stitch the piece onto the material.

2 - Mount on hardboard. Mount the piece directly onto the hardboard - no material. The old-fashioned way to mount a piece on hardboard was to lace the back of the piece together. Today, you may choose to use a glue gun, staple gun or even thumbtacks.

3 - Mount on a stretcher bar frame. This frame consists of four straight wooden pieces that are assembled to create a square or rectangle. The canvas is attached to all four straight wooden pieces (flat-head thumbtacks are best, but you may use staples). This frame is available in many different sizes. Be sure to choose a size that is sufficient for your piece.

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Painted or Hand-painted canvas -- These terms mean that a person used a brush and paints (usually acrylic) to paint the design onto the canvas. In the United States, these canvases are the most popular.

Stitch-painted canvas - You see this term more rarely, but it refers to a hand-painted canvas where each individual thread intersection is painted. Many people think this is
expense of a hand-painted canvas could put off someone on a limited budget. The keys to picking the perfect canvas are understanding the skills and knowing what you see when you look at a canvas.

I’ve been doing needlepoint since 1970 and teaching and writing about needlepoint since 1997, so I can help you understand the terms so you can get the perfect needlepoint canvas.
necessary for great needlepoint.

While stitch-painted canvas make it easy for you to know exactly what colors go where, not all things need to be stitch painted. Letter and number should be precise, and straight lines should be straight. But in many other cases, the precision (and cost) of stitch painting is not necessary.

Computer-printed - This is an emerging area of needlepoint canvases with quality equal to that of painted canvas. The difference is how the design is put onto the canvas. Extremely high-quality printers are used. Many people find it hard to tell the difference between painted and computer-printed.

Screened -- These canvases use silkscreening to produce the design. The paint used is oil-based and will look an feel
different from acrylic paints. The paint it pushed through a screen so that only the correct areas of the canvas are colored. Generally only very high-quality kits, such as Elizabeth Bradley or Ehrman use this method. You can usually tell a screened 
canvas because the edges of the design are straight.

Printed - These canvases use rolls of canvas and printing presses to put the design on canvas. They also use oil-based paints. Because the designs are mass-produced, edges often do not line up and colors may not change on the intersections. Printing is used for most kits and less expensive canvases.

Line-drawn -- These canvases are not colored, but have the outline of the design drawn onto the canvas from a template. Generally line-drawn canvases come with detailed instructions for stitching the design. This is also often the method used for teaching projects. It keeps the cost low but allows the same versatility in stitching you get with a painted canvas.

You can create wonderful needlepoint, no matter how the design gets onto the canvas, so buy the design you love and start to stitch!
About The Author:
Janet M. Perry is one of the leading writers of needlepoint stitch guides in the world. She writes innovative guides for needlepoint canvases from over 20 designers. She puts into practice her motto to make needlepoint fast, fun and affordable. She is an expert in needlepoint, both on the Web and through her writing as the Needlepoint Pro for Cross-Stitch & Needlework magazine. She works with designers,
shops, and thread manufacturers on new products and regularly reports on trends in needlepoint. Her newest book, Needlepoint Trade Secrets, will be available in the summer of 2007 on Amazon. Visit her website (http://www.napaneedlepoint.com) or blog (http://www.nuts-about-needlepoint.com) to learn about my newest products.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Janet_M._Perry

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***Stitch Index*** (Alphabetical)
A - I

2,4,6,8 & Tie Stitch

Algerian Eye Stitch

Algerian Eye Daisy
Stitch

Algerian Filling Stitch

Algerian Plait Stitch

Alternating Cross
Stitch

Astrakhan Stitch

Aubusson Stitch

Back Stitch

Bargello Stitch

Basketweave Stitch

Bazaar Stitch

Binding Stitch

Bokhara Couching Stitch

Bokhara Couching Stitch (Diagonal)

Bokhara Couching Stitch (Staggered)

Brazilian Stitch

Brick Stitch

Brighton Stitch

Bullion Knot

Buttonhole Stitch

Buttonhole Stitch (Detached)

Buttonhole Stitch (Double)

Buttonhole Stitch (Tailored)

Buttonhole Stitch (Whipped)

Buttonhole Wheel
Stitch

Byzantine Stitch

Cable Stitch

Cashmere Stitch

Chain Stitch

Chain Stitch
(Braided Variation)

Chain Stitch
(Heavy Variation)

Chain Stitch
(Interlaced Variation)

Chain Stitch (Lazy
Daisy Variation)

Chain Stitch
(Raised Variation)

Checker Stitch

Continental Stitch

Coral Knot Stitch

Couching Stitch

Couching Stitch (Buttonhole Variation)

Couching Stitch (Herringbone Variation)

Couching Stitch
(Open Chain  Variation)

Cretan Stitch

Cretan Stitch
(Diagonal Variation)

Cross Stitch

Cross Stitch (Bound)

Cross Stitch (Diagonal)

Cross Stitch (Heavy)

Cross Stitch (Houndstooth)

Cross Stitch (Reinforced)

Cross Stitch
(Reversed Double)

Cross Stitch
(Staggered)

Cross Stitch (St.Andrew)

Cross Stitch
(St.George)

Cross Stitch (Trame)

Cross Stitch (Triple)

Cross Stitch
(Two-Sided)

Cross Stitch
(Woven)

Cushion Stitch

Czar Stitch

Diagonal Stitch

Darning Stitch

Diagonal Buttonhole Stitch

Diagonal Interlaced Stitch

Diagonal Leaf Stitch

Diamond Stitch

Diamond Eyelet Stitch

Diaper Pattern Stitch

Double Cross Stitch

Double Knot Stitch

Double Star Stitch

Double Stitch

Double Straight
Cross Stitch

Droit Stitch

Eastern Stitch

Economic Stitch

Egyptian Stitch

Encroaching Slanted Gobelin Stitch

Eye Stitch

Eye Stitch with Backstitch

Fan Stitch

Fancy Stitch

Feather Stitch

Fern Stitch

Fishbone Stitch

Fishbone Stitch (Diagonal)

Flame Stitch

Flat Stitch

Flat Stitch (Crossed)

Florentine Stitch

Florentine Stitch (Split)

Fly Stitch (Closed)

French Knot

French Stitch

Ghiordes Knot

Gobelin Stitch

Gobelin Droit Stitch

Gobelin Filling Stitch

Gobelin Stitch
(Trammed Upright)

Greek Stitch

Half Cross Stitch

Herringbone Stitch

Herringbone Stitch (Double)

Herringbone Gone Wrong Stitch

Herringbone Stitch
(Six Step)

Hobnail Stitch

Hungarian Stitch

Hungarian Diamond Stitch

Hungarian Ground
Stitch

Hungarian Ground
Stitch (Diagonal)

Hungarian Point Stitch

Interlocking Gobelin Stitch














***Stitch Index*** (Alphabetical)
I - Z

Irish Stitch

Jacquard Stitch

Kalem Stitch

Kelim Stitch

Kilim Stitch

Knitting Stitch

Knitting Stitch (Diagonal)

Knitting Stitch
(Reverse Tvistom)

Knotted Stitch

Knotted Stitch (Single)

Ladder Stitch

Leaf Stitch

Leaf Stitch (Diagonal)

Leaf Stitch with Backstitch

Leviathan Stitch

Leviathan Stitch (Double)

Leviathan Stitch
(Triple)

Long Armed Cross Stitch

Long Stitch

Long and Short Stitch

Loop Stitch

Mexican Cross Stitch

Milanese Stitch

Montenegrin Stitch

Moorish Stitch

Mosaic Stitch

Mosaic Stitch (Crossed)

Mound Stitch

Nobuko Stitch

Oblique Stitch

Oblique Stitch (Diagonal)

Oblique Stitch (Reverse)

Oblique Slav Stitch

Oblong Cross Stitch

Oblong Cross Stitch with Backstitch

Oriental Stitch

Outline Stitch

Palestrina Stitch

Palace Pattern Stitch

Paris Stitch

Parisian Stitch

Pavillion Stitch

Perspective Stitch

Plait Stitch

Plait Stitch (Crossed)

Plait Stitch (Square)

Plaited Edge Stitch

Plaited Gobelin Stitch

Plaited Interlaced Stitch

Portuguese Cross Stitch

Portuguese Stem Stitch

Princess Pattern Stitch

Pyramid Stitch

Quick Point

Raised Stitch

Raised Cross Stitch

Ray Stitch

Ray Stitch (Expanded)

Renaissance Stitch

Rep Stitch

Reverse Bargello

Reversed Basketweave Stitch

Reversed Cross Stitch

Rhodes Stitch

Ribbed Wheels Stitch

Rice Stitch

Rice Stitch (Padded)

Rococco Stitch

Roman Stitch

Rope Stitch

Roumanian Stitch

Rug Binding Stitch

Rya Stitch

Satin Stitch

Satin Stitch
(Alternating)

Satin Stitch
(Padded)

Scotch Stitch

Scotch Stitch (Alternating)

Scotch Stitch (Condensed)

Scotch Stitch (Crossed)

Scotch Stitch (Woven)

Scottish Stitch

Sheaf Stitch

Shell Stitch

Single Knotted Stitch

Slanted Gobelin Stitch

Smyrna Cross Stitch

Sorbello Stitch

Soumak Stitch

Spanish Stitch

Spider Web Stitch

Split Stitch

Sprats Head Stitch

Square Plait Stitch

Star Stitch

Star Stitch (Large)

Stem Stitch

Stem Stitch
(Diagonal)

Stepped Sheaf Stitch

Surrey Stitch

Sutherland Pattern Stitch

Tapestry Stitch

Tent Stitch

Tent Stitch (Alternating)

Tent Stitch
(Diagonal Mosaic)

Tie Stitch

Trame

Trammed Tent Stitch

Triangle Stitch

Tufting Stitch

Turkey Stitch

Tvistom Stitch

Two Sided Italian
Cross Stitch

Upright Cross Stitch

Van Dyke Stitch

Velvet Stitch

Waffle Stitch

Wave Stitch (Closed)

Wave Stitch (Open)

Weaving Stitch

Web Stitch

Wheat Sheaf Stitch

Woven Band Stitch

Woven Pattern Stitch

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