What's The Difference Between DMC and Anchor Yarns
By: John Wigham

There are many different types of cross-stitching and embroidery yarns, and a multitude of companies that produce them. What is the difference between them and their yarns? Let's look closely at two of these major companies, both producing high quality yarns, doing a comparison study between them at the end.

DMC Yarn
First of all, let's look at the yarn company DMC, or Dollfus-Mieg & Compagnie, named after Daniel Dollfus and his wife, Anne-Marie Mieg. The custom in those days in France was for the husband to join the wife's maiden name to his own, which was how in 1800, DMC became the trade name for a previously existing family company.

But it wasn't until a short time later that they discovered John Mercer's invention of "mercerizing" the thread -- the process of passing the cotton thread through caustic soda, which modified the cotton, giving it strength, longevity, and a silky appearance; the production of their yarns and threads began at this time.

During this same time, a close friendship developed between Jean Dollfus, the uncle of Daniel Dollfus-Mieg, and Therese de Dillmont, a famous woman embroider of the time. She moved to Dornach, close to their factory in Mulhouse, and founded an embroidery school, which worked hand in hand with DMC. She later produced her famous book, the Encyclopedia of Ladies' Handicrafts, in 1886, which was translated and sold in seventeen countries.

By combining DMC with her embroidery school, they became the giant of needlework and yarns until the onset of the first-world war in 1914. They were known for their high quality, creativity, and high standards.

Today, they still are known for these same standards, also known as an international organization, the DMC Group, for manufacturing threads, industrial threads, and textile related products.

The DMC Group remains an international organization manufacturing consumer threads, industrial thread, and textile related products. The company's commitment to quality and creativity remains as strong now as it was in the 19th century.

The Dollfus family's early motto remains alive today, "TENUI FILO MAGNUM TEXITUR OPUS" (translated into "from one fine thread, a work of art is born"). They have an easily found website where you can look at their environmental safety procedures, board information, safety measures, new upcoming environmental projects, financial information, and new products coming out to either order or look at.

Anchor Yarn
The second company, the Anchor product line, is a division of Coats and Clarks. This company began in 1806 -- producing a 200-year history of expertise and quality. During that year, Napoleon blockaded Great Britain, which prevented silk from being brought into the country from abroad; during this same time, the Clark family had a business that sold silk threads for the warp on the looms.

As a reult of Napoleon's blockade, Patrick Clark developed a method "of twisting cotton yarns together" producing a strong and smooth thread that replaced both silk in the looms, and linen and silk threads used in hand sewing.

In 1812, the Clark family opened the first factory for making cotton-sewing thread in Paisley, Scotland. A few years later, James Coats opened another cotton thread mill. His sons, James and Peter, purchased their father's mill in 1830, expanding it in the next ten years by exporting to America. Andrew Coats, another family member, was sent to the United States to manage the business.

By 1864, the grandsons of James Clark, George and William, opened a cotton thread mill in Newark NJ. Five years later, the Coats family began manufacturing thread under the name of "Spool Cotton Company" in Pawtucket RI.

Thread at this time was made of three cords, and almost always used for hand sewing; it had a glazed finish, was wiry, and uneven. When Elias Howe invented the sewing machine in 1846, this thread was unsuitable because of these self-same qualities.

It wasn't until twenty years later than George Clark developed a six-cord, soft finished thread known as "Our New Thread," which made it the first thread suitable for machine use. This invention revolutionized the sewing industry, originating the still famous trademark for the Clark Thread Company, the O.N.T.

Over the years, the Clarks family produced many new products, which included threads for crocheting, darning, knitting, and embroidery cottons.

The O.N.T. was the first "fast black thread" along with the first American brand of sewing, crochet, and embroidery cotton to be available to the public in many colors, all color fast to boiling. By 1952, J. & P. Coats and the Clark Thread Company merged, to become Coats & Clark Inc. They are available online today (and can by found by using any of the leading search engines) from where they can be researched and supplies ordered online.

... in Comparison

Preference and experience from your own sewing likes and dislikes are ultimately the determining factor in which brand you use. I find that the Coats & Clarks (Anchor) company seems to be more for the average citizen with everyday needs and likes; while I personally found the DMC standards more for the ultra-groups in regard to colors and styles.

If I were going to do a project for Christmas, birthdays, everyday enjoyment, or training exercises -- I would use Coats & Clark products. But if I were to be putting a project together for a fair, a contest, or a "very special" something -- I would use the DMC yarns.

John Wigham has been a professional author and editor for 20 years and is a co-founder of Patterns Patch an online cross stitch club dedicated to counted cross stitch. The website has a small team of writers who are devoted to our cross stitch club and enjoy writing about their hobby.

Article Source: http://articleswww.com
PYRAMID STITCH
The Pyramid Stitch is also known as the raised stitch. Although it is similar to the eye stitch and the star stitch, it is more closely associated with the double
 
leviathan stitch. The difference between the pyramid stitch and the double leviathan stitch exists in the size of the finished stitch. The double leviathan stitch is generally worked using shorter diagonal stitches, thus making the overall double leviathan stitch smaller. The pyramid stitch consists of diagonal stitches that cross each other in the center. The stitch becomes more dimensional (3-D) as more diagonal stitches are added. It forms a 3-D square pattern, but you may also work it so that it forms a 3-D diamond pattern. In order to make the diagrams easier to follow, two colors have been used to illustrate these stitches. Three diagrams have been used to demonstrate this stitch. (Two diagrams for the square pyramid stitch plus one diagram for the diamond pyramid stitch.) Clicking on the PRINTABLE VERSION icon, located at the end of the series of diagrams, will direct you to the page to print these instructions.
Pyramid Stitch - Diagram 1
Pyramid Stitch - Diagram 2
Pyramid Stitch - Diagram 3
Pyramid Stitch (Diagram 1):
Bring the needle up at A, move up and to the right over eight canvas intersections, bring the needle down at B. Bring the needle up at C, move up over eight canvas threads and to the right over six canvas threads, bring the needle down at D. Bring the needle up at E, move up over eight canvas threads and to the right over four canvas threads, bring the needle down at F. Bring the needle up at G, move up over eight canvas threads and to the right over two canvas threads, bring the needle down at H. Bring the needle up at I, move up over eight canvas threads, bring the needle down at J. Bring the needle up at K, move up over eight canvas threads and to the left over two canvas threads,
Pyramid Stitch (Diagram 2):
Beginning where we left off at R, we will now finish the second half of the pyramid stitch. Bring the needle up at S, move up over six canvas threads and to the left over eight canvas threads, bring the needle down at T. Bring the needle up at U, move up over four canvas threads and to the left over eight canvas threads, bring the needle down at V. Bring the needle up at W, move up over two canvas threads and to the left over eight
Pyramid Stitch (Diagram 3):
This diagram illustrates how the diamond shaped version of the pyramid stitch should look. Bring the needle up at A, move up over ten canvas threads, bring the needle down at B. Bring the needle up at C, move up over eight canvas threads and to the left over two canvas threads, bring the needle down at D. Bring the needle up at E, move up over
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bring the needle down at L. Bring the needle up at M, move up over eight canvas threads and to the left over four canvas threads, bring the needle down at N. Bring the needle up at O, move up over eight canvas threads and to the left over six canvas threads, bring the needle down at P. Bring the needle up at Q, move up and to the left over eight canvas intersections, bring the needle down at R. Now, continue on to Diagram 2...
canvas threads, bring the needle down at X. Bring the needle up at Y, move to the left over eight canvas threads, bring the needle down at Z.  Bring the needle up at AA, move down over two canvas threads and to the left over eight canvas threads, bring the needle down at BB. Bring the needle up at CC, move down over four canvas threads and to the left over eight canvas threads, bring the needle down at DD. Bring the needle up at EE, move down over six canvas threads and to the left over eight canvas threads, bring the needle down at FF. This will return us to the A/B stitch, where we began, thus completing the pyramid stitch. Diagram 3 demonstrates the diamond shaped pyramid stitch.
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six canvas threads and to the left over four canvas threads, bring the needle down at F. Bring the needle up at G, move up over four canvas threads and to the left over six canvas threads, bring the needle down at H. Bring the needle up at I, move up over two canvas threads and to the left over eight canvas threads, bring the needle down at J. Bring the needle up at K, move to the left over ten canvas threads, bring the needle down at L. Bring the needle up at M, move down over two canvas threads and to the left over eight canvas threads, bring the needle down at N. Bring the needle up O, move down over four canvas threads and to the left over six canvas threads, bring the needle down at P. Bring the needle up at Q, move down over six canvas threads and to the left over four canvas threads, bring the needle down at R. Bring the needle up at S, move down over eight canvas threads and to the left over two canvas threads, bring the needle down at T. This returns us to the A/B stitch where we began and completes the diamond shaped pyramid stitch.
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***Stitch Index*** (Alphabetical)
A - I

2,4,6,8 & Tie Stitch

Algerian Eye Stitch

Algerian Eye Daisy
Stitch

Algerian Filling Stitch

Algerian Plait Stitch

Alternating Cross
Stitch

Astrakhan Stitch

Aubusson Stitch

Back Stitch

Bargello Stitch

Basketweave Stitch

Bazaar Stitch

Binding Stitch

Bokhara Couching Stitch

Bokhara Couching Stitch (Diagonal)

Bokhara Couching Stitch (Staggered)

Brazilian Stitch

Brick Stitch

Brighton Stitch

Bullion Knot

Buttonhole Stitch

Buttonhole Stitch (Detached)

Buttonhole Stitch (Double)

Buttonhole Stitch (Tailored)

Buttonhole Stitch (Whipped)

Buttonhole Wheel
Stitch

Byzantine Stitch

Cable Stitch

Cashmere Stitch

Chain Stitch

Chain Stitch
(Braided Variation)

Chain Stitch
(Heavy Variation)

Chain Stitch
(Interlaced Variation)

Chain Stitch (Lazy
Daisy Variation)

Chain Stitch
(Raised Variation)

Checker Stitch

Continental Stitch

Coral Knot Stitch

Couching Stitch

Couching Stitch (Buttonhole Variation)

Couching Stitch (Herringbone Variation)

Couching Stitch
(Open Chain  Variation)

Cretan Stitch

Cretan Stitch
(Diagonal Variation)

Cross Stitch

Cross Stitch (Bound)

Cross Stitch (Diagonal)

Cross Stitch (Heavy)

Cross Stitch (Houndstooth)

Cross Stitch (Reinforced)

Cross Stitch
(Reversed Double)

Cross Stitch
(Staggered)

Cross Stitch (St.Andrew)

Cross Stitch
(St.George)

Cross Stitch (Trame)

Cross Stitch (Triple)

Cross Stitch
(Two-Sided)

Cross Stitch
(Woven)

Cushion Stitch

Czar Stitch

Diagonal Stitch

Darning Stitch

Diagonal Buttonhole Stitch

Diagonal Interlaced Stitch

Diagonal Leaf Stitch

Diamond Stitch

Diamond Eyelet Stitch

Diaper Pattern Stitch

Double Cross Stitch

Double Knot Stitch

Double Star Stitch

Double Stitch

Double Straight
Cross Stitch

Droit Stitch

Eastern Stitch

Economic Stitch

Egyptian Stitch

Encroaching Slanted Gobelin Stitch

Eye Stitch

Eye Stitch with Backstitch

Fan Stitch

Fancy Stitch

Feather Stitch

Fern Stitch

Fishbone Stitch

Fishbone Stitch (Diagonal)

Flame Stitch

Flat Stitch

Flat Stitch (Crossed)

Florentine Stitch

Florentine Stitch (Split)

Fly Stitch (Closed)

French Knot

French Stitch

Ghiordes Knot

Gobelin Stitch

Gobelin Droit Stitch

Gobelin Filling Stitch

Gobelin Stitch
(Trammed Upright)

Greek Stitch

Half Cross Stitch

Herringbone Stitch

Herringbone Stitch (Double)

Herringbone Gone Wrong Stitch

Herringbone Stitch
(Six Step)

Hobnail Stitch

Hungarian Stitch

Hungarian Diamond Stitch

Hungarian Ground
Stitch

Hungarian Ground
Stitch (Diagonal)

Hungarian Point Stitch

Interlocking Gobelin Stitch














***Stitch Index*** (Alphabetical)
I - Z

Irish Stitch

Jacquard Stitch

Kalem Stitch

Kelim Stitch

Kilim Stitch

Knitting Stitch

Knitting Stitch (Diagonal)

Knitting Stitch
(Reverse Tvistom)

Knotted Stitch

Knotted Stitch (Single)

Ladder Stitch

Leaf Stitch

Leaf Stitch (Diagonal)

Leaf Stitch with Backstitch

Leviathan Stitch

Leviathan Stitch (Double)

Leviathan Stitch
(Triple)

Long Armed Cross Stitch

Long Stitch

Long and Short Stitch

Loop Stitch

Mexican Cross Stitch

Milanese Stitch

Montenegrin Stitch

Moorish Stitch

Mosaic Stitch

Mosaic Stitch (Crossed)

Mound Stitch

Nobuko Stitch

Oblique Stitch

Oblique Stitch (Diagonal)

Oblique Stitch (Reverse)

Oblique Slav Stitch

Oblong Cross Stitch

Oblong Cross Stitch with Backstitch

Oriental Stitch

Outline Stitch

Palestrina Stitch

Palace Pattern Stitch

Paris Stitch

Parisian Stitch

Pavillion Stitch

Perspective Stitch

Plait Stitch

Plait Stitch (Crossed)

Plait Stitch (Square)

Plaited Edge Stitch

Plaited Gobelin Stitch

Plaited Interlaced Stitch

Portuguese Cross Stitch

Portuguese Stem Stitch

Princess Pattern Stitch

Pyramid Stitch

Quick Point

Raised Stitch

Raised Cross Stitch

Ray Stitch

Ray Stitch (Expanded)

Renaissance Stitch

Rep Stitch

Reverse Bargello

Reversed Basketweave Stitch

Reversed Cross Stitch

Rhodes Stitch

Ribbed Wheels Stitch

Rice Stitch

Rice Stitch (Padded)

Rococco Stitch

Roman Stitch

Rope Stitch

Roumanian Stitch

Rug Binding Stitch

Rya Stitch

Satin Stitch

Satin Stitch
(Alternating)

Satin Stitch
(Padded)

Scotch Stitch

Scotch Stitch (Alternating)

Scotch Stitch (Condensed)

Scotch Stitch (Crossed)

Scotch Stitch (Woven)

Scottish Stitch

Sheaf Stitch

Shell Stitch

Single Knotted Stitch

Slanted Gobelin Stitch

Smyrna Cross Stitch

Sorbello Stitch

Soumak Stitch

Spanish Stitch

Spider Web Stitch

Split Stitch

Sprats Head Stitch

Square Plait Stitch

Star Stitch

Star Stitch (Large)

Stem Stitch

Stem Stitch
(Diagonal)

Stepped Sheaf Stitch

Surrey Stitch

Sutherland Pattern Stitch

Tapestry Stitch

Tent Stitch

Tent Stitch (Alternating)

Tent Stitch
(Diagonal Mosaic)

Tie Stitch

Trame

Trammed Tent Stitch

Triangle Stitch

Tufting Stitch

Turkey Stitch

Tvistom Stitch

Two Sided Italian
Cross Stitch

Upright Cross Stitch

Van Dyke Stitch

Velvet Stitch

Waffle Stitch

Wave Stitch (Closed)

Wave Stitch (Open)

Weaving Stitch

Web Stitch

Wheat Sheaf Stitch

Woven Band Stitch

Woven Pattern Stitch

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